Esperance, located on the southern coast of Western Australia, is a hidden gem with crystal-clear waters, white sandy beaches, and rugged coastal beauty. The only justification that I can give as to why Esperance isn't one of the top destinations in the world is due to how remote it is.
Whether you’re an ocean lover, nature enthusiast, or just someone looking to escape to a peaceful part of the world where your only worry is what beach to visit... then Esperance is for you. If you're planning a road trip, here’s a comprehensive guide that will help you plan what to do, when to visit, where to stay and how to get there.
Best Time to Visit Esperance
When it comes to visiting Esperance, timing is everything. The main attractions in Esperance are its pristine beaches, so the weather will play a big part in your trip. The best time to experience this slice of paradise is during the summer months, from December to March. These months offer the warmest weather and your best chance at some sunshine and calm waters. However, the weather can be unpredictable, especially in comparison to Perth, and it’s usually much colder there. I visited in mid-November and was actually really lucky with sunshine every day and almost no wind. It really is up to luck and luck only!
How to Get To Esperance?
There are 2 ways to reach Esperance - by car or by plane.
Hiring a camper van is the option I recommend the most. We rented through Camplify and our van was called 'Boots'. It had all the essentials and slept the three of us comfortably—there was even a rooftop tent for extra space. Hiring a camper van will give you the opportunity to experience van life and give you the freedom to drive along stunning beaches, park up to watch sunsets whilst making a cup of tea, and make dinner with the ocean at your doorstep. The drive from Perth is about 8 hours and it’s a straightforward journey, mainly along one straight road. Esperance is very 'camper-friendly' with plenty of caravan parks to choose from all year round.
If you prefer not to go the van life route, driving your own car is another option. Aside from caravan parks, there are also plenty of hotels, motels and airbnbs that offer accommodation too. A lot of these do book out during peak season, so definitely book in advance!
Make sure you fill up at every petrol station you see, especially on the drive to and from Esperance. If you miss one, the chances are that the next one is miles away!
If driving isn’t your thing, you can also fly with Rex Airlines from Perth to Esperance, which takes about an hour. From there, you'll need to hire a car to explore the region. Luckily, it is super easy to do this and you can pick up your rental car directly from the airport.
How Long Should I Spend in Esperance?
As I mentioned, the weather in Esperance is unpredictable, which makes planning your trip a bit tricky. For the best chance to experience sunshine and make the most of the mind-blowing beaches there, I recommend spending at least 5 days in the area. This gives you some flexibility to adjust plans if the weather takes a turn, and also gives you enough time to visit as many beaches as possible!
The Best Esperance Itinerary
My friends and I spent 5 days road-tripping in Esperance with Camplify, so here is our itinerary:
Day 1: Arrival
After a long 8-hour drive, I recommend staying somewhere central like Pink Lake Tourist Park, which is close to everything you need. We spent the afternoon relaxing, made some dinner in our caravan park and then headed over to the nearest beach to catch a beautiful sunset.
Day 2: Beach Day at Lucky Bay & Hellfire Bay
We started our day by heading to Lucky Bay in Cape Le Grand National Park (voted number 1 beach in the world) where you might spot kangaroos by the shore. A little tip - the best chance to see them is early morning or late afternoon, however I haven't seen them in a long time and I'm not sure if they are there anymore. Be prepared to pay an entry fee of around $17 AUD per vehicle.
Lucky Bay is a great spot to drive along the beach and is safe to do so for most cars as the sand is rock solid. We pulled up, made some pancakes by the shore and went for a dip. The blues of Lucky Bay are seriously incredible and the sand is so fine that it squeaks under your feet!
Whilst there, make sure you don’t miss Hellfire Bay, another beach in the same national park that is probably one of my favourites. We spent the afternoon here jumping off the rocks and lounging in the sun.
Afterwards, we headed back to the campsite to freshen up, then made our way to 11 Mile Beach to make dinner with a view. We set up in the carpark and had uninterrupted views of the ocean. We stayed until the sun went down sitting in the back of the van, fairy lights all around us and watching a movie - this is why I love van life so much!
Day 3: Day Trip to Wharton Beach
Wharton Beach is arguably the most beautiful beach in Esperance, if not the world. The water is incredibly blue and stretches as far as the eye can see. Wharton Beach is about an hour's drive from the town center making it the perfect place for a day trip, so pack some breakfast and lunch for the day.
If you have a 4WD, you can drive on the beach, but I recommend parking in the designated car park and walking down to set up your spot by the rocks if you are in a campervan like us (the sand isn't as hard as Lucky Bay). If you want a change of scenery, head to Duke of Orleans Bay which is just down the road.
We weren't done with beaches yet, so we decided to drive back to the main area and go for a dip at 11 Mile Lagoon, which is definitely home to some mermaids. There are little sand banks and rock pools to float in, all protected by a reef. We decided to stay here for the late afternoon, make some pasta and watched Aquamarine in the back of the van - bliss!
Day 4: Blue Haven & Twilight Bay
We started our last day with a visit to Blue Haven, a stunning beach that is quite literally a stairway to heaven. This is a great place to spot dolphins, too! This has always been one of my favourite spots to take photos as you really can't get a bad shot here.
It got a bit windy here so we decided to go for a drive and ended up at Twilight Bay, which was luckily sheltered from the wind. If you go early enough, you will be able to grab one of the best spots in the carpark with views from your van right out to the bright blue beach. We made some lunch here and sat on top of the van - we couldn't stop talking about how lucky we are to live in such a beautiful place!
For dinner, we grabbed some of the best fish and chips in town at Fish Face. You cannot miss going here on your trip - seriously best fish and chips in all of Western Australia. We decided to get it take away so we could, of course, watch the sunset.
Day 5: Time to Head Home
On our last day, we made one last stop to 9 mile Lagoon for a final dip before beginning the long journey home.
Final thoughts:
If you are planning a visit to Western Australia or even Australia, you must consider making the journey to Esperance. It has beaches like nowhere else in the world and it's the perfect place to experience van life in Australia. A small coastal town with everything you need. From the incredible views, kangaroos by the water, pristine beaches, SO many dolphins, hikes and friendly locals - Esperance will always be one of my favourite holiday destinations.
If you want to see what we got up to on my trip and get a better idea of all of the beaches we visited, watch my 'Esperance' highlights on my instagram here.
